About 35 succulent plants in the genus Aeoniums are distinguished by their highly shiny, waxy leaves that are grouped in rosettes. The species, which are also known as tree houseleeks, vary in size from small species like A. arboreum, A. valverdense, and A. holochrysum that grow several feet to bigger species like A. tabuliforme and A. smithii that grow just a few inches.
These succulents are occasionally confused for fake plants due to their flawless rosette structures’ spherical leaves. Choose from solid or variegated versions of these iconic rosettes in shades of white, yellow, red, and green. Clusters of small, unremarkable blooms like stars emerge from the center of the rosettes.
You can plant aeoniums inside or in the garden at any time of year. The small clusters of flowers that emerge from the centers of the rosettes may not appear for up to five years on these somewhat slow-growing plants. The majority of aeoniums are monocarpic, meaning that even while the mother plant perishes after flowering, the pups, or branches, will keep on producing new shoots.
Aeoniums Plant Overview
| Common Name | Aeonium, tree houseleek |
| Botanical Name | Aeonium spp. |
| Family | Crassulaceae |
| Plant Type | Succulent |
| Mature Size | 3–36 in. tall, 6-12 in. wide |
| Sun Exposure | Full, partial |
| Soil Type | Sandy, loamy |
| Soil pH | Neutral, acidic |
| Bloom Time | Winter, spring |
| Flower Color | Pink |
| Hardiness Zones | 9–11 (USDA) |
| Native Area | Canary Islands, Africa |
Aeonium Care
Aeoniums can be grown as perennials in the ground in warmer climes, but they are also frequently cultivated in pots on patios and decks. Grow them in containers in cooler climates and bring them inside before the season’s first frost. Aeoniums are the plants that attract the most attention when grown in large groups in the garden. Taller kinds, such as Aeonium smithii and Aeonium undulatum, can be trimmed if they get too lanky and start to resemble bonsai. The cuttings will easily take root and produce new plants, which will enable you to plant an even larger area.
Aeoniums have shallow root systems and demand damp, but not soggy, soil since they store water in their leaves and stems. If the plant becomes pot-bound or its stems fall and come into contact with the ground, you may discover that they are able to form roots along their stems. The stem roots in these roots will swiftly regrow the fallen pieces into new plants, so be sure not to let them dry up. Because of the weight of the rosettes, lanky branches frequently topple over and break off. Simply replant the damaged stem and watch for it to re-root if this occurs.
Light Requirements
Aeonium plants thrive best in full or partial sunlight, much like most other succulents do. Light shade may be required in hot summers and desert environments, particularly in the sweltering afternoon hours. If the plant is being grown inside, position it near a window that receives six to eight hours per day of bright, indirect light. Your aeonium plants need to be moved if you start to observe brown or white spots on the tops of their leaves. This indicates that they are receiving too much direct sun.
Soil
You should try to plant your succulents in sandy loam or ordinary potting mix that has been supplemented with perlite, whether you’re growing them indoors or outdoors. Since aeoniums require more moisture than succulent and cactus mixtures usually offer, avoid putting them in such a mixture. In order to increase the porosity of the soil in a classic garden bed with dense soil for growing aeonium plants, you should supplement the mixture with peat moss.
Watering
Rainfall should provide aeonium plants with all the water they require when planted outdoors. When soaking the soil at the plant’s base indoors, you should let it dry out to a minimum of one or two inches. If the plant is cultivated outside, it will usually become dormant in the hottest parts of summer and winter. You can limit watering during this time, giving it hydration only when you see the leaves starting to wither. While these plants do prefer higher levels of moisture than many other succulents, root rot can result from overwatering them or from leaving them in soggy soil.
Temperature and Environment
A temperature that is similar to the Mediterranean is ideal for these plants—it shouldn’t be too hot, cold, or dry. Since the majority of aeonium types are only hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11, they will almost always be grown indoors. Although aeoniums can withstand intense heat when grown in damp, shady soil, their actual growing season is from late winter to spring, when temperatures are cold (65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) and humid.
Fertilization
During their growing season, you can feed your aeoniums plants with a half-strength balanced fertilizer for optimal results. Your aeoniums’ maturity and the nutritional quality of your soil will determine how frequently you fertilize; younger plants may benefit from monthly treatments, while older plants may do well with a single spring feeding. Fertilize the plants only at the soil’s surface; do not apply excessive amounts to the foliage. While they’re dormant, don’t feed them.
Types of Aeoniums
Aeonium arboreum: This readily available plant features branching stems with vivid green rosettes. With a shrubby shape, it can reach heights of up to 6 feet in a garden and 3 feet in pots.
Aeonium arboreum ‘Atropurpureum’: If cultivated in intense light, this 3- to 5-foot-tall cultivar will have red leaves.
Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ or ‘Black Rose’: The leaves of this cultivar are a deep burgundy or nearly black color.It’s a very big plant, too.
Aeonium ‘Garnet’: The leaves of this hybrid cross of A. tabuliforme and A. ‘Zwarkop’ are dark crimson at the tips and green in the center.
Aeonium davidbramwelli ‘Sunburst’: This variety features rosettes up to one foot across with pale yellow, white, and green stripes and pink tips on a shorter, one to two-foot tall plant.
Aeonium haworthii ‘Tricolor’ or ‘Kiwi’: It is a 2- to 3-foot plant that grows easily. It has 4-inch flowers that mature to red and green with pale yellow centers when they are young.
Propagating Aeoniums
Aeonium propagation is a good strategy to increase the number of plants in your collection because of the way the plant branches, resulting in many plants from a single cutting. Aeoniums, like many other succulents, are relatively simple to reproduce from cuttings; even broken stems can easily take root in the surrounding soil. When aeoniums are in the height of their growing season, which is in the spring, they should be propagated. The following is how aeonium is propagated from cuttings:
- Slice a younger stem section with a leaf rosette off using a very sharp, clean cutting instrument. To allow the cut end to heal, place the cutting on its side for approximately three days in a warm, dry, and shaded area. (The callus is crucial because, after the cutting is planted, it will stop root rot.)
- Half potting soil and half succulent or cactus potting mix should be added to a tiny pot. Just deep enough to support the cutting’s upright position, insert the cut, callused end into the potting mix. Once a week, give the pot a light watering and place it in bright indirect light. To prevent rot, make sure the pot you purchase has enough drainage at the base.
- When the plant’s roots are well established, wait to water it until the top two inches of soil are completely dry. When necessary, repot into a bigger container.
Potting and Repotting Aeoniums
Aeoniums require very little soil, which makes them ideal for growing in containers. In order to properly regulate their growing environment, containers also allow you to examine their distinctive characteristics up close. To prevent soggy soil, standing water, and root rot when potting your aeonium, choose a container with plenty of drainage holes at the base. Maintaining the proper soil moisture can also be accomplished with a container constructed of a moisture-wicking substance, such as clay or terracotta.
When the plants are in their active growing season in the spring, pot (or repot) your aeonium. Every year, you should replenish the soil, either by adding more soil to your current container or by planting a new one if the plant has outgrown its current one. Slowing growth, too much dirt drying out, or roots emerging from the base are all indications that your aeonium has outgrown its container. Most varietals should be ready for a fresh pot every two to three years on average.
Common Pests
The usual aphids, mealybugs, mites, and scale are drawn to aeoniums. But there’s another creature you need to watch out for: ants. Ants are drawn to succulents by the sweet compounds secreted by mealybugs and aphids. Removing ants from succulents that have tightly-budded leaves or rosette leaves is a difficult task. The greatest thing you can do is lure the ants in by placing bait adjacent to the plants. You focus on getting rid of the other pests after the ants have left. To get rid of these insects, give the plant a spray of water or a moderate insecticidal soap.
Common Problems With Aeoniums
The fact that this succulent exhibits some natural activity that may lead one to believe it is dying makes it both simple and difficult to care for. Here are some pointers for taking good care of aeoniums.
Plant Leaves Falling Off
The rosette’s bottom leaves shedding is quite natural. Moreover, the rosette might somewhat narrow. The plant is probably going through its dormant period, which occurs in the winter and summer (particularly if cultivated outdoors), even if it appears to be dying. You don’t need to “treat” this problem; just let the plant rest on its own without attempting to assist it.
But, if leaves start to fall off your plant at strange times, it can indicate that your succulent is under stress. If the plant is loosing its leaves and the rosette is curling or shutting up, you can discern the small difference between stress and not stress on the plant. Give the plant some water if you believe that to be the case, and watch to see whether the rosettes expand and uncurl. However, the leaves might still shed.
Browning Leaves
The leaves of the plant that receive excessive sunshine will become burnt and may have brown or white edges. Regretfully, this damage cannot be undone. You can simply move the plant to a position with somewhat less direct sunlight and remove the burnt leaves, or wait for them to fall off naturally.
Dying Mother Branch
When the main mother plant of a branching aeonium flowers, the branch will look to be dying. Even if the plant is dying, you can still save it by cutting off the head where the rosette and flowers have already opened with a clean, sharp tool. The branch should have babies (shoots) on it that will grow and eventually flower, even though they may not look very lovely at first.
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