The strange but fitting name “lacecap hydrangeas” comes from hydrangeas whose flower heads resemble flat caps with frilly edges. Similar to mophead hydrangeas, lacecap hydrangeas are indigenous to Japan and are part of the bigleaf hydrangea species (Hydrangea macrophylla).
The bushes vary in size, color, and bloom period, but all lacecap hydrangea flowerheads have a core set of petite florets surrounding by showier flowers. The huge, flattened flower heads are set against a luxuriant background of wide, dark green, serrated leaves. Similar to the majority of hydrangeas, these bushes grow quickly, typically gaining two feet or more annually. Fall or early spring are the best times to plant.
The lacecap hydrangea plant is poisonous to both people and animals.
Lacecap Hydrangea Overview
Common Name | Lacecap hydrangea |
Botanical Name | Hydrangea macrophylla |
Family | Hydrangeaceae |
Plant Type | Shrub |
Mature Size | 3-7 ft. tall, 3-5 ft. wide |
Sun Exposure | Partial |
Soil Type | Well-drained |
Soil pH | Acidic, neutral, alkaline |
Bloom Time | Summer, fall |
Flower Color | Blue, white, pink |
Hardiness Zones | 3-9 (USDA) |
Native Area | Cultivars, no native range |
Toxicity | Toxic to humans, toxic to pets |
Lacecap Hydrangea Care
The following are the primary needs for lacecap hydrangea growth:
- When planting hydrangeas, carefully consider their placement. Achieve the ideal balance between sufficient sunlight—which is necessary for a bountiful bloom—and avoid excessive sunlight, particularly in the afternoon when the plant may wither.
- Make sure there is enough moisture available for the plant.
- Because lacecap hydrangea varieties differ in size at maturity, arrange a group of plants differently depending on the variety.
- To make the flowers blue, add aluminum sulfate to the soil; to make the blossoms pink, add lime to the soil.
Light Requirements
Planting lacecap hydrangeas in a spot with some sun is ideal for their growth. The best location is one with early sun and afternoon shade. In direct sunlight, the leaves may droop, become yellow, or scorch. However, hydrangea stems may weaken and yield fewer blooms if placed in excessive shade.
Soil
Rich, well-draining soil that has been supplemented with organic matter, such as manure or compost, is necessary for growing lacecap hydrangeas. Certain cultivars’ bloom colors vary depending on the acidity of the soil, with the exception of those that have white blossoms. Flowers grown in an alkaline soil (pH 7.0 or higher) will be pink, while flowers grown in an acidic soil (pH 5.5 or lower) would be blue.
Consider adding a few inches of organic mulch around the shrub to assist the soil retain the moisture that these shrubs need. Stems shouldn’t have mulch piled around them.
Watering
While lacecap hydrangeas can not tolerate overwatering, it is vital that they receive enough water. Put your finger about four inches into the earth to see if the plant needs water or not. Water is needed if the hydrangea feels dry to the touch.
If there isn’t a substantial downpour, which occurs around once a week, water the soil thoroughly enough to saturate it without making it too wet. Since the water must go to the roots of the plant, frequent light sprinkle irrigation is ineffective. Watering the soil deeply and infrequently is a good habit.
Temperature and Environment
The lacecap hydrangea varies in hardiness, but in general, it thrives in mildly warm weather with low humidity levels as opposed to hot, muggy summers.
Verify the hardiness zone of the cultivar to make sure the plant you choose can survive the local winters. Certain cultivars cannot withstand temperatures below Zone 6.
Fertilization
Without a doubt, fertilizer will promote growth. Applying a balanced fertilizer in the early spring as directed by the product label is advised. Every year, you can also incorporate organic compost into the soil.
Because feeding promotes new development, fertilization should only be applied in the spring and never in the late summer. Winter damage is particularly prone to late-season growth.
Types of Lacecap Hydrangeas
A few well-known lacecap hydrangea varieties are as follows:
Twist-n-Shout: a reblooming lacecap hydrangea in pink or blue, part of the Endless Summer hydrangea series
“Bluebird”: beautiful blue blooms and reddish-orange fall leaves encircled by sea-blue florets.
“Zorro”: features reddish-orange fall foliage and sturdy, upright purple-black stems with deep blue blooms.
‘Lanarth White’: a cluster of light pink or blue flowers surrounded by a ring of white florets
“Lady in Red” is a little cultivar with red stems and crimson veins on leaves that is two feet tall by three feet wide.
Pruning
Knowing whether a type of hydrangeas blooms on growth from this year (new wood) or last year (old wood) is crucial information to have when pruning them. The lacecap hydrangea, like all other big-leaf hydrangeas, blooms on older growth. In the summer, immediately after it has flowered, prune it.
You can remove diseased or dead stems at any time of the year. Deadheading faded flowers is not required. For winter interest, many gardeners choose to leave the dead blooms whole.
Propagating Lacecap hydrangea
It is possible to propagate lacecap hydrangeas, although there are two obstacles. Since most variations are cultivars, it is not advised to start them from seed as this will not result in a plant that is true to type. The other limitation is that varieties that are trademarked cannot be propagated.
To create a new shrub, utilize softwood stem cuttings from the current season’s growth for non-trademarked kinds. Early summer is a good time to do this so the cutting will have enough time to root and you can plant it in the fall. Here’s the procedure:
- Remove the top of a robust, healthy stem with no blooms that has at least one growth node (a knobby line across the stem) by using clean, sharp pruners or a knife.
- Take off the leaves from the cutting’s lowest portion.
- Insert the cutting end into the rooting hormone.
- Put some moist, sterile potting mix in a four-inch pot. Using a pencil or a stick, make a hole in the ground and place the cutting in the ground deep enough to bury the growing node. Compact the ground surrounding the stem.
- The pot should be placed somewhere warm and bright, but not in the direct sunlight. Ensure that the soil is consistently damp but not drenched.
- The cutting should start to grow again in a few weeks, at which point you can move the plant into larger containers or garden soil. Make sure to harden off the plant before transplanting it into the garden.
Potting and Repotting
It is possible to cultivate lacecap hydrangea in a container. Before repotting, plant it in a pot that is a little bit deeper and wider than the one you purchased it in, to allow for some growth. Terra-cotta is a great material for containers because it wicks away excess moisture and is heavy enough to keep plants from toppling over. Put some well-draining potting mix in the container.
Potted hydrangeas require regular irrigation to prevent drying out. A potted hydrangea’s primary cause of death is a lack of water.
It’s time to move the hydrangea to a bigger container when the roots begin to protrude through the drain holes or when the plant gets root-bound. Before relocating the shrub, choose a pot that is one size larger and fill it with new potting mix.
Overwintering
Winter protection is not necessary for lacecap hydrangeas if they are planted in garden soil and within their hardiness range. To shield potted plants’ roots from the winter freeze, a heavy layer of mulch should be applied to them, and the container should either be encased in bubble wrap and burlap or set inside an insulating silo.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Fungal diseases such bacterial wilt, blight, leaf spot, and powdery mildew can affect lacecap hydrangeas. The chance of a fungus spreading can be reduced by maintaining adequate space between plants and avoiding overhead irrigation.
Aphids are drawn to lacecap hydrangeas. Neem oil or insecticidal soap may need to be applied in cases of severe infestation.
How to Get Lacecap Hydrangea to Bloom?
Bloom Months
In general, lacecap hydrangeas bloom in late summer, however the precise timing varies depending on the type. Some will continue to bloom throughout autumn.
How Long Do Lacecap Hydrangea Blooms Last?
The beautiful thing about hydrangeas is that their blooms may be allowed to dry on the shrub and will still look wonderful long after they are gone.
What Do Lacecap Hydrangea Flowers Look and Smell Like?
The white, pink, or blue flower heads of lacecap hydrangeas are made up of a lacy cluster of smaller florets encircling a flat ring of (typically) four-petaled florets. By adjusting the soil’s acidity or alkalinity, you can change the hue of blue or pink blooms. There is no scent to hydrangeas.
How to Encourage More Blooms
Too much shadow, pruning done too late in the year, which damaged the flower buds, or a late spring frost following a warm spell are common causes of hydrangeas not blooming.
Reduce the size of nearby trees or shrubs to allow more sunlight to reach the shrub if it is too big to be moved. Regarding trimming, after you modify your schedule, it will grow back and produce flowers the next year.
Deadheading Lacecap Hydrangea Flowers
You can cut hydrangeas for indoor vases, and it won’t harm the shrub. Hydrangeas make beautiful cut flowers.
Lacecap hydrangeas can accommodate their next bloom by deadheading them. Cut off the wasted flowers slightly above the subsequent set of leaves and below the bloom head.
Common Problems With Lacecap Hydrangeas
Although hydrangeas are not picky plants, they do require the proper soil, sunlight, and location. Watch out for these possible problems.
Yellow Leaves
Yellowing leaves may be a sign of excessive fertilizer, overwatering, or underwatering. First, check the water levels. Allow the soil to dry out if it’s wet. Give it a substantial drink at the soil’s level if it is obviously thirsty. Use a soaker hose to flood the plant’s root zone if you think it has been overfertilized, being careful not to let any water pool. To enable the fertilizer to move farther away from roots and into the soil, repeat every few days.
Drooping Leaves
Refrain from turning on the hose if leaves are starting to fall at noon. It’s likely not necessary for the hydrangea to receive water as it is shielding itself from the heat and will recover when nighttime temperatures drop.
Browning Leaves
At noon, if the leaves are beginning to fall, do not turn on the hose. The hydrangea is protecting itself from the heat and will probably recover when nighttime temps drop, thus it probably doesn’t need watering.