Many plant collectors’ wish lists are topped by the stunning and highly sought-after pink princess philodendron, or Philodendron erubescens “pink princess.” With its heart-shaped, deep green leaves variegated with bubblegum pink, the pink princess is a truly unique plant in the world of plants. Though it is easily mistaken for the Philodendron pink congo, the pink princess variegation is stable because it results from natural processes, while the pink congo variegation is artificially created by injecting chemicals into the leaves, which typically causes them to return to green a few months after purchase.
The secret to keeping your pink princess philodendron looking its best is knowing how to take good care of it. Luckily, its maintenance is rather simple, just like that of many other philodendron plants.
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TogglePink Princess Philodendron Plant Overview
Botanical Name | Philodendron erubescens ‘pink princess’ |
Common Name | Philodendron pink princess, blushing philodendron |
Family | Araceae |
Plant Type | Perennial |
Mature Size | 4-5 ft. tall, 2-4 ft. wide |
Sun Exposure | Partial |
Soil Type | Loamy, moist but well-draining |
Soil pH | Acidic |
Bloom Time | Spring, summer |
Flower Color | Green, white |
Hardiness Zones | 9a, 9b, 10a, 10b, 11a, 11b |
Native Area | South America |
Pink Princess Philodendron Care
The pink princess philodendron is a tropical aroid belonging to the Araceae family that is native to Columbia. This brightly colored plant is actually rather simple to maintain, despite its expensive price. Having said that, there are a few crucial considerations to make sure you are optimizing the leaf variegation.
Light Requirements
Getting enough light for your pink princess philodendron is the single biggest element affecting how much variegation it gets. Pick a spot that gets bright, indirect light for several hours.
The pink princess philodendron can withstand a few hours of direct light when cultivated indoors, which may aid in increasing its variabilities. Purchasing a grow light for this plant is advised if you don’t have a spot in your house that gets adequate light. The pink princess’s leaves will soon start turning back to green in the absence of sufficient light, and they will also lose their gorgeous variegation.
Soil and Potting
The pink princess philodendron, being an aroid, prefers soil that is rich in organic matter and is airy and well-draining. For the pink princess, a blend of one part regular potting soil, one part perlite, and one part orchid bark works best.
Watering
After letting the top half of the soil dry up in between irrigations, thoroughly water the area. This often implies that in the spring and summer, you should water your plant once a week, and in the fall and winter, once every one to two weeks.
Because they are prone to root rot, make sure your pink princess is never placed in soggy soil. If you are not sure if your pink princess philodendron needs water, err on the side of caution and wait for another day. In general, it is far easier to overwater than to submerge it.
Temperature and Environment
Warm, humid weather is ideal for pink princess philodendrons, yet these robust plants can tolerate normal home temperatures and humidity levels. Avoid exposing your plant to temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 degrees Celsius) and instead, keep it in the ideal range of 65 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 26 degrees Celsius).
Fertilization
The pink princess philodendron grows best when fed on a regular monthly basis with a balanced liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer. When your plant reaches its dormant stage in the early fall, stop fertilizing it.
Repotting Pink Princess Philodendron
Once this philodendron has outgrown its previous potting container, which should happen once every year or two, it should be repotted. Your plant is ready to be repotted if its roots are coming out of the drainage holes or wrapping around the inside of the pot.
Although a pink princess philodendron can be repotted at any time of year, the best seasons to do so are in the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing. Furthermore, since you will need to water your plant well to keep it in place in its new pot, you should wait to repot it until it is ready for watering. Here are a few simple methods to repot your pink princess philodendron.
How to Repot a Pink Princess Philodendron?
Select a pot that is 2-4 inches bigger than the previous potting container used for your plant. There should be drainage holes in the pot (terracotta or plastic nursery pots are excellent choices).
Make sure your plant has access to an ample supply of clean, well-draining potting soil.
Take your pink princess out of its old pot gently.
To get rid of as much of the old soil as you can, loosen the root ball.
As you fill the pot with fresh dirt with one hand, place your plant in the new pot and hold it in place.
Give the recently transplanted plant plenty of water, letting the extra run out through the drainage holes in the pot.
Relocate the plant to its original spot and start watering it on a regular basis.
Propagating Pink Princess Philodendron
Stem cuttings are an easy way to reproduce the pink princess, just like with most philodendrons. Propagation not only helps you grow a new plant to give to a friend, but it also makes the plant bushier and can promote variegation (particularly if your plant’s leaves have begun to turn yellow). Here are just a few simple steps to follow in order to reproduce your pink princess philodendron from stem cuttings:
- Decide where you want to cut your plant’s stem first. Two to three leaves and two to three exposed nodes at the bottom of the cutting are what you should have.
- Cut the stem and separate your cutting with a pair of sharp, sterile pruning shears or scissors.
- Take off all but two or three of the leaves from the top of your cutting.
- To give the cut edge time to heal, leave the cutting aside for a duration of 12 to 24 hours.
- After the cutting edge has become callused, submerge it in water and place it in an area with strong indirect light. Make sure that the cutting’s exposed nodes are always submerged in water.
- New roots should start to emerge from the pruning in two to three weeks.
- The cutting can be returned to the soil once the roots are at least 1 inch long. Water thoroughly and use a potting mix that drains properly.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
The pink princess philodendron is prone to several common diseases and pests that affect indoor plants. Aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, scale, and fungus gnats are examples of common pests. Common illnesses include rust spot, which is caused by a fungal infection, and root rot, which is brought on by excessive watering.
Common Problems With Pink Princess Philodendron
Pink princess philodendrons are comparatively trouble-free when given the right care. These tropical plants frequently have problems that are caused by inadequate light, humidity, or irrigation.
Leaves Are Not Pink and Losing Variegation
The most likely reason for this is a lack of light. To encourage strong variegation, make sure your plant receives bright, indirect light and stay away from low light levels. Early detection and correction of this issue is crucial because a fully reverted pink princess philodendron is incapable of regaining its variegation.
The plant is Getting Leggy
When a plant grows lanky, it means it’s not getting enough light, which makes the leaves strive for additional light. Transfer your plant to a more light-filled area to avoid lanky new growth.
Leaves Are Turning Brown
A pink princess philodendron’s browning edges are typically caused by low humidity, which makes the leaves start to dry up. Sadly, once the damage has been done, it cannot be undone; however, if you raise the humidity level surrounding the plant, additional browning should be avoided.
Leaf Variegation is Turning Brown
Brown patches are the last thing you want to see on your gorgeous pink variegation, but if you expose your plant to too much sun, this is regrettably what might happen. Large burn spots can occur from the delicate pink dots on leaves that are prone to scorching in intense illumination. As previously indicated, there may also be situations when this is the result of low humidity.
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