The hybrid tea rose and floribunda rose that gave rise to the Queen Elizabeth rose, also known as Rosa ‘Queen Elizabeth,’ was the first Grandiflora rose. American rose breeder Walter Lammerts created it in 1954 as a tribute to Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1952. Grandiflora roses blend the many flower clusters of Floribunda roses with the long, tall, upright stems of hybrid tea roses. The Queen Elizabeth rose features glossy, dark green leaves that resemble leather and pink blossoms. It continuously blooms in the summer and early fall.
It’s common knowledge that roses are difficult to grow and need a lot of attention. Not this one—Queen Elizabeth roses are tough, disease-resistant, and somewhat easy to cultivate, which makes them a popular choice, particularly for first-time rose growers. However, because it is a shrub-like plant that may grow to a height of six feet or more, it needs room and looks best when placed as a screen or near the back of a flower bed.
Planting the Queen Elizabeth rose in the early to mid-fall allows the roots time to establish themselves before the plant goes dormant.
Queen Elizabeth Rose Overview
Common Name | Queen Elizabeth Rose |
Botanical Name | Rosa Queen Elizabeth |
Family | Rosaceae |
Plant Type | Perennial, rose |
Mature Size | 4-6 ft. tall, 2-3 ft. wide |
Sun Exposure | Full |
Soil Type | Loamy, moist, well-drained |
Soil pH | Acidic |
Bloom Time | Summer, fall |
Flower Color | Pink |
Hardiness Zones | 5-9 (USDA) |
Native Area | Hybrid, no native range |
Queen Elizabeth Rose Care
The following are the primary maintenance needs for growing Queen Elizabeth roses:
- Plant in well-draining, rich, well-worked soil that receives full light.
- Maintaining enough air circulation and a minimum of three feet separating plants will help stop the spread of illnesses.
- Regular pruning can enable the Queen Elizabeth rose’s damp foliage to dry quickly after a rainstorm and prevent morning dew.
- Fertilize as soon as the flowers appear in the early spring.
Light Requirements
At least six, ideally eight, hours of bright, direct sunlight each day are necessary for Queen Elizabeth Roses.
Soil & Potting
Ideal soil is loamy. Rich, loose, and well-draining soil is ideal. Roses like their soil to have a pH of 6 to 7, which is somewhat acidic.
Watering
Consistently moist but not soggy soil is ideal. Fungal illnesses are caused by either excessive water or poor drainage.
If there hasn’t been any rain, check the moisture level in the top two to three inches of soil, and water the rose deeply. Water must get to the up to three feet of roots that roses have in the ground.
Mulching the area surrounding your rose bush, preferably with bark or wood chips, keeps the soil moist longer and keeps weeds out of the way so the plant doesn’t have to fight them for water.
Temperature and Environment
Up to USDA zone 5, Queen Elizabeth rose can withstand harsh winters and scorching summers. Excessive humidity can be problematic, particularly if there isn’t enough air circulation because fungal infections can grow in humid conditions or because there hasn’t been enough pruning, resulting in overly dense branches.
Fertilization
Fertilize the rose with an all-purpose fertilizer or a specific rose and flower fertilizer as soon as new growth begins to develop in the early spring. After the first bloom, fertilize once more. Because new growth late in the season is susceptible to frost, a third feeding at the conclusion of the season is only recommended in a warmer climate with a long, moderate fall.
Types of Queen Elizabeth Rose
In addition to the shrub, Queen Elizabeth also comes in a climber form that has the same sturdy, dark green foliage and pale pink blooms. It grows on fences, pergolas, and trellises.
Pruning
The deciduous Queen Elizabeth rose sheds all of its leaves in the fall and then sprouts new ones in the spring. Remove the spent flower stems to promote recurrent blooming.
Before buds begin to form, in late winter or early spring, remove all diseased and dead wood, as well as any crossing stems. Next, hard prune, removing up to one-third of the plant to promote growth and blooming. To avoid possibly spreading plant illnesses, be sure to sterilize your pruners by mixing two cups of bleach with one gallon of water. Take out every bit of debris and throw it in the garbage.
Propagating Queen Elizabeth Rose
The Queen Elizabeth rose is a hybrid, so growing new plants from seeds won’t produce a plant that is true to its parent. However, you can grow more roses from stem cuttings:
- Take a 12-inch cutting off a recently blooming stem, then use sharp pruners to remove any flowers or flower buds.
- Take out every leaf on the stalk save the top two pairs.
- Divide the lower fourth of the stem into four parts and submerge each part in rooting hormone.
- Plant potting mix in a 6-inch pot for roses. With the split side of the stem facing down, make a hole in the potting mix. Tap the earth surrounding the stem gently.
- Give it plenty of water.
- To help keep the soil moist, place a clear plastic bag over the entire pot, including the cutting. After you notice fresh growth, transfer it to a sunny, warm spot and maintain the soil consistently moist. At that point, you should take off the plastic bag.
Potting and Repotting Queen Elizabeth Rose
The Queen Elizabeth rose grows best in a garden bed due to its size as a shrub, but it can also be grown in a large container. Make sure the container has plenty of drainage holes and is one-third broader than the plant to allow its whole root system. A gravel layer at the bottom helps with drainage and gives a plastic container more weight, which makes it less likely to topple over. The container should be placed in a bright area away from windy areas.
Remember that growing a Queen Elizabeth rose in a container requires extra attention both in the summer (frequenter watering) and the winter (insulating the container from the cold).
Overwintering
When planted in garden soil, the Queen Elizabeth rose is hardy and does not require any winter protection; however, it is beneficial to have a thick layer of mulch surrounding the base to shield the roots from the cold.
Cultivating roses in containers is a distinct challenge. The roots in a container require protection from the cold because they are exposed to it. The container can be winterized in a few different ways: it can be buried in the ground, moved to a protected area, or put within an insulating silo.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Aphids are the most frequent pest threatening the Queen Elizabeth rose.
The term “disease-resistant” mostly refers to the Queen Elizabeth rose’s moderate resistance to powdery mildew and black spot.1. It is still susceptible to other common rose diseases as crown gall, rose mosaic, botrytis blight, rust, stem canker and dieback. Making sure the plant is healthy and keeping a watch on it to detect any symptoms early are your best lines of protection. A plant that has been harmed by pruning or winter injury is particularly susceptible since lesions can serve as entrance spots for a variety of fungal infections.
How to Get Queen Elizabeth Rose to Bloom?
The Queen Elizabeth rose often fails to bloom because it receives insufficient direct sunshine. If so, look around to see if you can trim back the surrounding plants to provide the rose with more light.
Bloom Months
Usually, the Queen Elizabeth Rose blooms from mid-summer until early fall.
What Does Queen Elizabeth Rose’s Flowers Look and Smell Like?
The rose features dark green foliage and pale pink blooms. It has a subtle scent and is at the lighter end of the fragrance spectrum.
How to Encourage More Blooms?
Make sure your roses have enough of distance from other plants and adequate air circulation to promote more blossoms. A plant that grows more foliage than blossoms may be the result of too much nitrogen in the soil, so you may also want to check the fertilizer.
Common Problems With Queen Elizabeth Rose
The Queen Elizabeth rose is a sturdy variety that lives up to its reputation of being free of typical issues. Japanese beetles are frequently to blame if the shrub’s buds, leaves, and flowers are severely damaged in the middle of summer. Rather than treating the insects one site at a time, you might consider implementing a more thorough control strategy. The same goes for spotted lanternflies, another extremely damaging bug drawn to rose gardens.
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