Vanda Orchid Complete Guide To Grow And Care

Vanda orchids are epiphytic, which means that instead of growing in soil, they connect their roots to the surface of a nearby plant in order to get moisture and nutrients. The lengthy, meandering roots and flat petals of vanda orchids are well-known features. It can be challenging to attain these conditions in the house, but they grow best under high humidity, high temperatures, bright light, and sufficient airflow. Additionally, stable daytime temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and consistent nighttime temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit are preferred for this orchid.

Vanda Orchid Overview

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Common Name Vanda orchid
Botanical Name Vanda spp.
Family Orchidaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 1–3 ft. tall, 1 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Peat moss, bark
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall, winter
Flower Color Pink, red, yellow, orange, blue, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 10-11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia

Vanda Orchid Care

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The primary requirements for maintaining a vanda orchid are listed below:

  • Most vanda orchids should be placed in strong light.

     

  • For best air circulation, plant a vanda orchid in a basket filled with soilless medium.

     

  • Give vanda orchids more water than you would other varieties. In exceptionally hot weather, this orchid may need to be watered twice a day.

     

  • A vanda orchid needs extremely high humidity—between 60 and 80 percent—to flourish.

Light Requirements

Although they need intense light, Venus flytraps usually don’t perform well in direct sunshine. Although they can tolerate full sun, plants cultivated in that environment are usually bleached out and less robust than those planted in shade cloths, which filter the harsh light. Know what kind of vanda you have because some need more sunshine than others.

Soil and Potting

In their natural habitat, these orchids prefer rocky spots with little or no soil. Their massive roots wiggle through the atmosphere, clinging to surrounding trees and other objects. Plants grown in regular potting soil may not survive. Rather, use a basket that gives the roots enough airflow. Add bark, peat moss, or any other soilless material to the basket—like orchid-specific potting medium—to help hold the plant in place. The plant will eventually be held upright by the roots attached to the basket.

Watering

A lot of water is needed for vadas. It may be necessary to water them twice a day during hot weather. Water throughout the winter dormant season approximately once a week. Throughout the growing season, keep the medium of the container continuously moist but not waterlogged.

Temperature and Environment

Vandas enjoy weather that is warmer than 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Although they can withstand lower temperatures, extended exposure to the cold can significantly impact a plant’s ability to develop and bloom. Flowering may be delayed by up to a year if exposed to any temperature lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

In the same vein, vandas need high humidity to flourish. It is necessary for them to have a humidity level of at least 60%, ideally 80%. Place your plant on a gravel tray that has been filled with water to increase the humidity; make sure the roots are not submerged in the water.

Fertilization

Because vadas are voracious feeders, healthy plants produce more flowers. Apply a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer once a week to your plants during the growing season. To encourage better blooms, you might switch to a high-phosphorus fertilizer every third treatment. Reduce the amount of fertilizer to once every two to four weeks in the cooler months.

Types of Vanda Orchids

The Vanda genus of orchids has over 80 species, along with numerous hybrids and subspecies. Here are only a handful of the several exquisite Vanda species:

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Vanda coerulea: Often called the blue orchid, this little species has lovely, durable blue-purple blossoms.

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Vanda sanderiana: There are pink and white variations of this orchid, which is also referred to as Sander’s vanda or waling-waling.

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Vanda tessellata: This plant, also known as the checkered vanda or lattice-like patterned flower vanda, has yellow petals with brown edges and white margins.

Propagating Vanda Orchids

Rarely are vada orchids grown from seeds because the process might take a long time and the seedlings are extremely delicate. Rather, cuttings are typically used to grow these orchids.

Vanda orchids produce tiny, leafy offshoots that are often located somewhat above the main root structure. You can start propagating the cuttings whenever one of these offshoots develops two or three leaves and aerial roots. To multiply cuttings, simply adhere to the following guidelines:

  • Use a sterile garden shear to carefully cut the branch away from the main stem when it is 2 to 3 inches long, leaving the offshoot’s roots and leaves in one portion.

     

  • Place the shoot back in a growth medium for orchids. Make sure the container is appropriate, such a clay pot or basket, with lots of drainage and air circulation.

     

  • As the roots take hold of the growing medium, keep it moist all the time.

     

  • The plant should be fed and watered similarly to an established plant.

Potting and Repotting Vanda Orchids

Although the plant outgrows its container, vetiver plants don’t require frequent repotting—perhaps every two to three years—because their aerial roots don’t mind protruding beyond the basket. Just transfer the plant and its old basket into a new, bigger basket if they want additional room and you prefer to keep them contained. Fresh growing material should be worked around the roots, but try not to disrupt them too much since this can cause the plant a great deal of stress. If you would rather repot your orchid entirely, follow these instructions:

  • Select a clay pot or basket that is approximately 1 inch bigger in diameter than the previous container.

     

  • Remove the plant from the old container by gently but firmly pulling on its base. When extracting an orchid from a clay pot, it can occasionally be beneficial to just tap the pot to release the orchid.

     

  • Cleanse the roots with fresh, clean water. Remove any decayed or dead roots.

     

  • For drainage, if you are using a clay pot, fill it with pebbles until about one-third of the way up. Since baskets have superior drainage, this step is not necessary.
  • Spread the roots of the plant out in its new container.

     

  • If use a basket, insert the roots into the slots and secure the stem base with plant wire. For added support in keeping the plant in place, use soilless growing material.

     

  • To further anchor the plant, add the soilless potting medium to a clay pot or basket.

Common Pests

The main issue with this orchid will be mealybugs, which you will need to look for because they frequently hide inside the plant where the leaf and stem converge. Aphids and scale can potentially pose a threat to vanda orchids. The best treatment is a thin layer of insecticidal soap or oil applied carefully.

Common Problems With Vanda Orchids

Because they are such delicate plants, vanda orchids might develop issues if they don’t get enough light and moisture. Excessive or inadequate watering is the most frequent cause of plant mortality. The following are some indicators of typical vanda orchid issues:

Shriveling Leaves

Vandas adore water, however, excessive irrigation will stunt the plant’s growth and result in root rot, which is shown by withering leaves. Shrunken leaves are another sign of underwatered plants.

Disfigured Flowers

A vanda orchid may swell and produce blisters if it receives excessive water.

Sticky Substance on Buds and Leaves

While you may believe that the sticky stuff on your buds is “honeydew,” it’s actually a natural sap that orchids create. Additionally, the sap could drip onto the leaves, sticky-making them. Just spritz the leaves and buds with water to dissolve the sap.

Leaves Turning Yellowish Green

Although these orchids rarely receive too much light, vandas will become red or yellowish-green if they receive too much direct sunlight.

Spindly Growth

The result of insufficient light is spindly growth, poor flowers, and deep green leaves on the plant.

Also Read:  Eastern White Pine Complete Guide To Grow And Care

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